Loan / Mortgage Calculator
Calculate monthly payments, total interest and amortization for any loan.
Reviewed by Aygul Dovletova · Last reviewed
How to Use the Loan Calculator
- Enter the loan amount - the principal you will actually borrow, net of any down payment. For a $30,000 car with $5,000 down, the loan amount is $25,000, not $30,000.
- Enter the annual interest rate - the nominal yearly rate the lender quotes. Enter it as a percent (6.5, not 0.065). If your lender quotes an APR that includes fees, use that figure for a more accurate total-cost number.
- Enter the loan term - toggle between years and months. Typical terms are 360 months (30-year mortgage), 180 months (15-year mortgage), 60-84 months for auto loans, 24-60 months for personal loans, and 120-300 months for federal student loans.
- Read the three outputs - the monthly payment is the number you would send the lender each month. Total paid is monthly payment times number of payments. Total interest is total paid minus principal; that is the fee you are paying for the loan, independent of what you are buying.
What the Tool Does and the Formula Behind It
This calculator solves the closed-form amortization equation for a fully-amortizing fixed-rate loan: M = P × r(1+r)n / ((1+r)n - 1), where M is the monthly payment, P is principal, r is the periodic interest rate (annual rate divided by 12), and n is the number of payments. The equation is derived from the present-value-of-annuity formula in the Time Value of Money framework - it is the same math used by Bankrate, Zillow, and every loan officer's HP 12C calculator. When the rate is exactly zero, the formula degenerates and the calculator falls back to simple division: P / n.
The computation runs inside a Preact component that recomputes on every keystroke. JavaScript numbers are IEEE-754 doubles, which means the result is accurate to about 15 significant digits - far more precision than any lender's actual billing system, which typically rounds to the nearest cent per payment. Because billing systems round up, your last scheduled payment in real life is usually a few dollars different from the first payment; this calculator shows the ideal mathematical average.
Real Scenarios Where You Would Pull This Up
- Comparing two mortgage offers at different rate-and-fee combinations to see which has the lower total cost over 7 years (the typical home-ownership span).
- Deciding whether to finance a used car at the dealer's 8.9% offer or take a 6.5% personal loan from your credit union.
- Modeling a student-loan refinance: current balance at 6.8% federal versus a private 5.4% offer, net of losing income-driven repayment flexibility.
- Choosing between a 15-year and 30-year mortgage - the 15 saves enormous interest but the 30 gives liquidity that can be invested.
- Sanity-checking a monthly payment a dealer or lender verbally quotes before you sign (a common tactic is to quote a low monthly by stretching the term).
- Estimating what you can afford before a home search by plugging maximum DTI-compliant monthly into the inverse of the formula.
Edge Cases That Trip People Up
First, the loan amount and total purchase price are not the same thing. A mortgage with closing costs rolled in has a higher principal than the sale price; enter the real balance you will owe day one, not the sticker. Second, the rate entered should be nominal annual, not effective. A 6% nominal rate compounded monthly has an effective annual rate of about 6.17% - if your lender quotes the effective figure you will slightly over-calculate the payment. Third, this calculator assumes a fixed rate; adjustable-rate mortgages (ARMs) and variable-rate private student loans change their monthly payment on each reset date. Fourth, "bi-weekly" payment plans are not covered by this tool - they make 26 payments a year instead of 12 and cut total interest by several years. Finally, balloon loans (common for small-business and commercial real estate) do not fully amortize; the closed-form formula here assumes the final payment zeroes the balance.
Amortization, APR, and the Specs That Govern Them
Amortization is the process of gradually paying off principal through level periodic payments. Early in the loan, most of each payment covers interest; late in the loan, most covers principal - the crossover happens roughly two-thirds of the way through for a 30-year mortgage at typical rates. US consumer loans are governed by the Truth in Lending Act (TILA, 15 U.S.C. Chapter 41) and Regulation Z, which require lenders to disclose the APR using a standardized formula that includes finance charges beyond raw interest: origination, discount points, mortgage insurance, and certain third-party fees. APR is always equal to or greater than the nominal rate; a loan with no fees has APR equal to the note rate. This calculator uses the note rate by default because that is what you enter; to see a full APR-based total cost, plug in the APR figure from your lender's TILA disclosure instead.
How This Compares to Excel, a Financial Calculator, or Your Lender's App
Excel and Google Sheets have a PMT(rate, nper, pv) function that returns the same number this calculator produces - the advantage of the spreadsheet is that you can chain it with scenarios for rate sensitivity analysis. An HP 12C or TI BA II Plus financial calculator uses the identical TVM keys (N, I/Y, PV, PMT, FV) and remains the industry standard on the CFA exam and in commercial lending desks. Lender apps and sites like Bankrate often include tax-and-insurance estimates your amortization formula cannot know about; those are more accurate for total monthly housing cost, but slower for quick comparison shopping. This tool's value is speed for a single what-if: three inputs, one answer, no signup. For an apples-to-apples comparison of real lender offers, use the APR figures on the Loan Estimate form (required within three business days of a mortgage application by the TRID rule). This output is informational and should not be used as the sole basis for a borrowing decision - a licensed loan officer or financial advisor should review any significant debt before you sign.
Frequently Asked Questions
How accurate is the monthly payment this calculator produces?
The math is mathematically exact for a fully-amortizing fixed-rate loan - accurate to 15 significant digits in JavaScript. Real lender statements will usually differ by a few cents per payment because billing systems round each payment to the nearest cent and adjust the final payment to zero out the balance. Over a 30-year mortgage the cumulative difference is typically under $10.
What is the difference between interest rate and APR?
The interest rate (or note rate) is the raw cost of borrowing the principal. APR (Annual Percentage Rate) includes the interest rate plus most mandatory fees - origination, discount points, mortgage insurance, certain closing costs - and is calculated under Regulation Z to force a standardized comparison. For two loans with the same note rate, the one with lower fees has a lower APR. Use APR for offer comparison; use note rate for amortization math.
Can I use this for an adjustable-rate mortgage (ARM)?
Only for the initial fixed period. A 5/1 ARM locks the rate for five years then adjusts annually, so the calculator gives an accurate payment only during those first 60 months. After the reset, you would re-run the calculation with the new rate and the remaining balance as principal. Most ARM terms cap the lifetime adjustment (e.g. 5% above start) - model the cap scenario if you want a worst-case payment.
Should I pick a 15-year or 30-year mortgage?
The 15-year charges a lower rate (typically 0.5-0.75% less) and saves enormous interest - on a $300,000 loan at 6%, the 15-year pays about $155,000 less total interest than the 30-year. The 30-year has a much lower monthly payment, which preserves liquidity for emergencies and investing. Financially, if you consistently invest the payment difference at a return higher than the 30-year rate, the 30-year wins; otherwise the 15-year is usually better. Your willingness to sustain that investing discipline is the real deciding factor.
Does this calculator account for property taxes, insurance, or PMI?
No. This is a pure principal-and-interest calculator. Your actual monthly housing payment (PITI - principal, interest, taxes, insurance) adds property tax (roughly 1-2% of home value per year divided by 12), homeowners insurance ($100-200 per month typical), and PMI if your down payment was under 20% (0.5-1.5% of the loan annually). For a full PITI estimate, use a dedicated mortgage calculator that includes escrow fields.
Is my loan data sent anywhere?
No. The calculation runs as a Preact component in your browser; values live in React-style state and are never transmitted. There is no fetch, XHR, or service-worker interception of your inputs. You can verify by opening the Network tab in your browser devtools - after the initial page load, no further requests fire while you edit fields. Closing the tab discards every value.
How much do extra principal payments save?
More than most people expect, because extra principal compounds against the loan. On a $250,000 30-year mortgage at 6.5%, adding $200/month to every payment pays the loan off roughly 7 years early and saves about $92,000 in interest. This calculator shows the base schedule; for extra-payment scenarios, a full amortization-schedule tool is needed.
Can I use this to solve for the maximum loan I can afford?
Indirectly - plug in trial principals until the monthly payment matches what your budget allows. A cleaner approach is to start from 28-36% of gross monthly income (the conventional DTI guideline) and back-solve. Lenders will typically qualify you for more than the 28% "front-end" ratio; borrowing to the maximum qualified amount is almost always a mistake because it leaves no buffer for taxes, maintenance, or income disruption.
Why does my total interest seem so high?
Over a 30-year loan at 6-7% rates, total interest typically exceeds the original principal - you genuinely pay for the house twice. This is the price of borrowing, and it is accurate: early payments are nearly all interest because the balance is largest at that point. This is not a reason to avoid the loan necessarily - leverage on an asset that appreciates with inflation can still produce a positive outcome - but it is a reason to shop rates aggressively and not roll pointless costs into principal.
Is this a substitute for a financial advisor?
No. The calculator produces an accurate payment for a given set of inputs, but choosing which loan, which term, and how much to borrow is a planning decision that depends on your full tax, income, retirement, and insurance picture. A CFP or mortgage loan officer can translate this number into the right borrowing strategy. Use the tool to narrow down the math, then talk to a professional before signing.
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